Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!


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Goldstream Peacoat: Our Pattern Tester’s Versions

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We have for you, today, the gorgeous results of some of the Goldstream Peacoat pattern testers! The test sewers for this pattern had to put in a lot of work: not only did they have to sew quite a large project, they also had to provide a detailed review for us (and answer all of my emails!).  I am very pleased to finally be able to display all their hard work and stunning results.  These skilled and thorough testers were working on this project back in November and December so they have been very patient waiting for their grand reveal!

Since both variations of the Goldstream that I have made (see my father-in law’s here and Matt’s here) have been black and my mom is currently working on a black one for my Dad while my Grandma and I sew a black coat for my Grandad, I am glad that our test sewers were a little more adventurous in their fabric choices so you can see the variety of styles that the pattern can create.

Nicole’s coat, pictured above, is sewn in a chocolate brown wool melton with beautiful leather buttons.  She mixed and matched elements from both variations of the pattern to create the exact look that she wanted: a hood, flapped patch pockets and sleeve tabs.  Her colour choices and the fabric she placed behind her custom garment tag (see her blog post for all the interior photos!) led to a peacoat with a lovely earthy vibe, perfect for walking through a colourful fall forest.

Thea’s peacoat is a classic black version using the design details from Variation 1 but the classic fit (skipping the slimming dart) of Variation 2.  The length of the coat looks great with the jeans and shoes her stylish model, Andy is wearing (and the background is beautiful!).  Check out all of Thea’s photos and commentary over on her blog.

Thea's peacoat

The third version I have to show you today was sewn by the author of one of my favourite blogs, The Sew Convert.  I love how she always takes such crystal clear photos of her garments so that I can examine every detail.  Her post on the peacoat is no exception and is worth checking out.  The wool she chose is a really elegant and rich looking Italian wool melton coating from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I love the look that it gave the peacoat – to me it looks very English and so I was thrilled to read that it will be heading to England to keep her husband warm and dry during a work/school trip this coming year!

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Thank you test sewers (both those pictured in this post and those not pictured) for all of your invaluable advice and support!  We hope you are resting up and are eager to volunteer for the next pattern!

The PDF version of  the peacoat has been flying off the ‘shelf’ (so to speak) so I imagine we will be seeing some of your versions popping up amid all the other projects on the sewing corner of the internet soon.  Have you bought your peacoat fabric yet?  What have you chosen?

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Calling all Peacoat Test Sewers!

Matt gave you a sneak peak of my big peacoat project earlier this week and now, here is the full gallery of photos that resulted from a quick photo shoot with his dad, Rick!

This is the final size medium sample of the Goldstream Peacoat pattern which is now being graded by Sabine over at Suncoast Custom while I work away on the instructions.

As you can see, the pea coat pattern will include an attractive (I think!) combination of classic and modern (read: easy to sew) details.  We’ve included epaulets and sleeve tabs as well as traditional top-stitched pointed lapels but we’ve forgone the tricky welt pockets to instead include unconventional but very easy to sew patch pockets with optional flaps.  The pattern includes a hood which is sewn as a completely separate piece from the coat so as not to complicate the classic pea-coat shape.  During really awful weather the hood can be buttoned to the hidden under-collar buttons so the wearer can stay completely dry and warm.  There  is a center back seam as well as optional front darts (which were not used for the version pictured here) so that the fit of the body is very easy to adjust.  If the darts are sewn in, the fit is very slim and modern (perfect for all the tall slim men who have been loving the fit of our Newcastle Cardigan!) but if they are left un-sewn the fit is as photographed here – a nicely fitted classic peacoat.

Now that things are drawing to a close with the production of the pea coat pattern (finally! You have all been so patient with us while we tackled this huge pattern project!) we are ready to assemble a list of pea coat test sewers.

For each of our other pattern releases we simply sent an email out to our existing test sewing group.  All these people have volunteered to be added to the list either through our website or blog and have been so enthusiastic and helpful each time we require test sewers.  For this pattern, though, we would like to accept new volunteers to add to our existing group in hopes of finding three test sewers with as much coat sewing and general tailoring experience as possible.

If you would like to be added to our test-sewing list for this particular project, comment on this blog post (and we will email you to ask for details on your sewing experience), or skip that step and email us directly (info@threadtheory.ca) with either a small write-up detailing your experience or links to online records of relevant projects (be it a blog post, a flickr pool or facebook photos etc.).  Keep in mind that this is quite a big test sewing project and will need to be completed in a time frame of approximately three weeks from when we send you the pattern.  As we expect to send the pattern out to testers within the next two weeks, this means that you will need to devote a good portion of time to sewing the coat this November.  Any test sewers who are already on our mailing list need not re-volunteer as we will send out our usual email once the pattern is ready to send out and you can volunteer for the project at that point!

Thanks for volunteering!


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Special Delivery!

What’s that, you want another sneaky Wednesday post from Matt full of hints of things to come?

You got it.

First up, an itty-bitty box full of brown paper!

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That’s right, after being an incorporated business for 10 months and selling our product for 5 months (jeeeez, has it only been 5 months?!), we finally got around to ordering business cards! They were designed by the lovely and incredibly talented Sonia Bishop (who also designed our logo) and printed by ClubCard printing out of Vancouver, BC. They are a vertical design done in plain black and white ink on 24pt natural kraft paper. And we love them.

Next up are some significantly larger boxes. 6 of them, to be exact, weighing in at a total of 180 lbs.

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That’s right, tissue patterns! Our first three patterns have arrived and they look GREAT! We knew it was going to be a pretty big load, but we had NO idea how much space 3,000 packets of tissue paper would take up. Turns out it’s a lot; Morgan is currently painting our closets so we can have everything looking pretty and organized for a later photoshoot. And they are HEAVY! Step 1 of going to print: Complete.

Now for some Goldstream Peacoat action: Morgan has finished the second prototype of the pattern, and it turned out beautifully!

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There are still a couple tiny changes to be made before it is graded and prettied up, but we’re getting close! More details coming soon…

Last, but certainly not least, there is a super-secret project that Morgan and I are working on. I can’t say much more about it other than one of our previous posts contained a photo hint (remember a cardboard box?). It is involving quite a bit of planning and logistics, but we’re VERY excited to show you once it’s ready!

Thanks for stopping by, and remember to follow our blog for updates!


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Goldstream Peacoat Contest!

Happy Friday, blog world! Welcome to a made-by-Matt special post!

Our world in the Thread Theory studio has been focused entirely around peacoats lately, so this week we wanted to immerse you in a bit of the inspiration behind the Goldstream Peacoat pattern that we are chugging away at! I think there is no outerwear, for men, more classic yet versatile as the standard issue navy peacoat. The history of the British Navy peacoat is fuzzy at best; there are many stories as to how it got the name and where it was first issued, but there is one thing for certain: The dense navy-blue wool double-breasted coat kept those sailors warm!

The double-breasted front keeps the wind at bay (pun DEFINITELY intended), while the collar can be popped up and buttoned straight across the neck for the ultimate protection from the elements. The slightly shorter body was designed to allow for sailors to easily climb rigging while wearing the coat. This means that even in a nicely fitted jacket, sailors had full range of motion.

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(http://www.sehkelly.com/shop/jackets/tobacco-brown-wool-tweed-peacoat/)

 

Morgan and I are crazy busy with moving (we got the keys to our new place yesterday!) so this post is going to be short, sweet, and full of eye-candy! Morgan is currently in the midst of (hopefully) the final test-version of our pattern in a black wool with pea-green lining. She hasn’t decided yet whether to do gold, pewter, or black “fouled anchor” buttons (the anchor wrapped up in line); we’ll keep you posted!

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(http://fashionablethings.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/81_nordstrom-theory-peacoat.jpg)

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(http://i.nordstromimage.com/images/Store/blog/men/2012/9_10/peacoat_sure_bets_fall_catalog6.jpg)

Like I said earlier, this is a short one! Our internet is getting hooked up tomorrow, which means I’m posting this using a mystery neighbour’s connection (sorry! We really can’t miss a Friday post!) which is spotty, to say the least. We’ll be adding more photos once we’re plugged in!

This week, we would like you to comment on this blog post with your favourite tailoring, traditional menswear sewing, or jacket-related sewing techniques and resources! If your comment is relevant, we will enter you in a draw to win the Goldstream Peacoat pattern (or another pattern of your choice) once it has been released! The draw will close by next Friday, October 11th, and the winner will be announced in our weekly blog post! We hope to use your favourite resources (be them on-line classes, on-location classes, books, blogs, YouTube videos, or a technique of yours that you explain) to compile a Goldstream Peacoat sewing encyclopedia on our blog.

Thank you in advance for all of your great suggestions! Feel free to suggest something even if you haven’t tried it yourself as Morgan will be investigating anything that is mentioned.