Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!


4 Comments

Look who has joined us! New PDF Patterns

New Era of Menswear

People often tell us that they are thrilled to have stumbled upon our shop because their choices are so limited for menswear sewing patterns and we have worked hard to rectify this.  While this is true in comparison to the proliferation of gorgeous, trendy women’s styles available, we feel that the indie sewing community has done an excellent job of beginning to fill the menswear void along with us.  Menswear sewing patterns are no longer few and far between – let’s celebrate this!

COLLABORATION IS KEY

In order to foster a sense of community and to bring menswear to the forefront of the online sewing world, we’ve decided to attempt to gather all the excellent menswear PDF patterns together and make them available in one, easy-to-find place: Our Thread Theory website.  Most of these well-designed menswear patterns have been created by companies who usually focus on women’s fashion.  By joining us and sharing their patterns in our shop, we hope they will be easier for you (the menswear sewists) to peruse and compare all in one place and all in one similar format.

Look who has joined us.jpg

So, without further ado, let me introduce you to the first designs to join our Thread Theory patterns in the PDF shop!

New PDF pattern companies - Technical Illustrations

 

As you can see, these designs would make a great capsule wardrobe for summer – choose your tee, your preferred over shirt, your casual pants, shorts, and swim shorts to sew everything you need for a summer vacation!

All of these patterns offer something you will not be able to find in our Thread Theory range – whether this be larger sizes or unique style lines (since we focus on basics).

New PDF pattern companies - Mimi G

Many of these patterns are from SewSew Def Magazine which is a collaboration between blogging powerhouses Mimi G Style and Norris Danta Ford.  They kindly featured our Finlayson Sweater in an early issue of the magazine so we are thrilled to be able to work with these designers in a new way by offering their patterns in our shop!  You’ll find six PDF patterns on offer in our shop – I can’t quite pick a favourite as I’m torn between the innovative seaming on their Wooster Cargo Shorts and my love for the namesake of their Gosling Button-up Shirt. 😉

New PDF pattern companies - Wolf and Tree and True Bias

The two other designers I’m proud to feature in our shop are The Wolf and the Tree and True Bias.

The Wolf and the Tree offer a very inclusive t-shirt pattern which is available in two separate size ranges – Regular (S-XL) and Big and Tall (XLT-4XLT).  This versatile tee features crew and v-neck options as well as instructions to finish with hems or bands.

 

True Bias is the designer who created the iconic women’s Hudson Pants, of course!  We now carry Kelli’s men’s version which fills a big hole in our available designs – no menswear pattern shop would be complete without the most comfortable of lounge wear!

Based on the enthusiastic response we’ve received from other pattern companies, you should be able to anticipate the introduction of a large variety of other PDF patterns to our shop over the coming weeks and months.  Thank you for sharing your favourite menswear patterns when I requested feedback in a previous blog post – we’ve found some real gems based on your comments!

And thank you, to our inaugural designers, for your enthusiasm and support as we work towards our goal of pushing menswear to the forefront of the sewing world.  We’re so glad to have you on board!

Shop our PDF catalogue >

Advertisements


3 Comments

The Sayward Raglan sewing pattern is here!

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-1

Let’s welcome the Sayward Raglan – an excellent addition to your spring or summer sewing plans!

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-2

Our newest pattern is a casual and flattering raglan t-shirt with short and long sleeve variations.  We also included instructions and cutting layouts to walk you through the process of creating a color-blocked tee (à la the classic baseball tee).

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-4

Raglan t-shirts have many benefits for both the sewist and the wearer.  From the wearer’s perspective, the raglan sleeves have been curved in just the right way to create the appearance of a strong chest.  Very flattering!

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-5

From the sewist’s perspective, the process of attaching a raglan sleeve is a breeze in comparison to wrangling the curve of a classic t-shirt sleeve head.  Raglan sleeves eliminate the one tricky step in the t-shirt sewing process to result in a quick project that can be cut, fitted and sewn in the space of a single relaxing evening.

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-6

Our interpretation of the raglan t-shirt features an easy fitting (but not boxy!) body and sleeves.  When compared to our slim-fitting Strathcona Henley, this t-shirt is far less figure hugging and thus will fit a broader range of body types.  It also features an extended size range compared to the Strathcona Henley – up to 4XL!

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-7

If fitted is more your style, the instructions include easy steps to fit as you sew (so that you can create the slim sleeves and body that you desire on the go).

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-8

The neckline on our raglan is a relaxed crew-neck.  It is not as tight as a classic crew-neck t-shirt making for a slightly more youthful/stylish look that works well with thick or thin necks (no one wants a tight crew neck choking them on a hot summer’s day!).

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-9

I’ve sewn the first of our two main samples in a combination of heathered grey tencel and organic cotton french terry for the body paired with a white cotton interlock for the sleeves:

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-10

Matt reports that the thick and soft end result makes for a very comfortable t-shirt and I have been surprised to see him wearing it on hot spring days!  He says it breaths nicely and he doesn’t overheat despite the cozy loft provided by the french terry loops.  I’m pleased with this result because the french terry is SO easy to sew – it is stable, does not curl and it behaves more or less like a cotton woven fabric.  It would be a great option for a beginner sewist to use.

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-12

Jayden’s version is sewn with the same tencel and cotton french terry body paired with bamboo and cotton french terry sleeves and neck binding.  All the terry fabrics come from my favourite local sewing studio – The Spool Sewing Studio.

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-16

I also sewed a solid version (no color-blocking) to show you that the raglan sleeves are not very noticable when no color-blocking is employed.  The end result can be worn as would any basic t-shirt!  This fabric is a cotton and spandex blend jersey in navy with tiny anchors.  I found it at my local Fabricland.

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-17

If you are new to sewing knits, this is an excellent pattern for you to start with.  As always with our knit patterns I include instructions for sewing with a regular sewing machine or with a serger.  I instruct how to hem with a twin needle or a zig zag stitch.

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-11

A sew-along will begin next Friday, May 18th.  You can easily have your first raglan tee finished in time for Father’s Day (or in time to clear your sewing queue for our next pattern release in June!!!!).

Sayward-Raglan-Blog-13

I hope you like our newest pattern!  It has been one of our top request (second only to a button-up shirt) since we launched Thread Theory.  No wonder – it’s fun to sew and easy to wear!

Read more about the Sayward Raglan >

Share your Sayward on Instagram or Facebook using #saywardraglan


8 Comments

Get to know the Belvedere Waistcoat

Belvedere Waistcoat-16

The Belvedere Waistcoat PDF pattern was launched in our shop last night and now it’s time to delve in to the details so you can get to know our newest menswear design!

Belvedere Waistcoat-12

The Belvedere is a classic fitted waistcoat with a moderately low neckline, angled hem, and long darts on both the front and back.  The waistcoat is fully lined and includes a back neckline facing for a high-end finish.

Belvedere Waistcoat-17

Belvedere-Technical-Illustrations

There are two variations included with this pattern:

Belvedere Waistcoat-11

Variation 1 (modelled by my Dad) features some really nice details such as three welt pockets and small side seam vents.  This version was created as a satisfying tailoring challenge.  There are tips and suggestions spread throughout the instruction booklet that encourage intermediate sewers to expand their skill set.

Belvedere Waistcoat-3

Variation 2 (modelled by Matt’s Dad and also seen pictured on my Granddad), is a very minimalist take on a traditional waistcoat.

Belvedere Waistcoat-18

It includes fewer buttons, no pockets, and no side seam vents.  This is an excellent project for a relative novice who would like to push themselves to learn a solid foundation of skills.  By the time you are finished sewing the Belvedere you will have learned how to stay stitch, under stitch, sew darts, line a garment, and add buttonholes!  You will be ready for all manner of menswear projects.

Belvedere Waistcoat-10

I wanted to make this pattern suitable for both novice and intermediate sewists because it is rare to find a menswear piece that is so small, quick, and also satisfying to create.  It is the perfect canvas to practice basics or to take your time and add all sorts of beautiful details.  Also, a waistcoat, depending on fabric choice, can serve so many purposes!  So I wanted the one pattern to operate as a solid foundation for menswear sewists to use as a tried and true pattern.  I can imagine a new sewist trying out this pattern after sewing perhaps a couple of basic bags and pajama pants.  They can then come back to this pattern throughout their entire sewing career, each time increasing the attention to detail, the quality of the fabric they use, and the level of fit achieved.  This one pattern can be used to sew a casual layering piece, an elegant tweed classic, something dressy for your groomsmen, or the finishing touch for a three piece suit.

Belvedere Waistcoat-20

I kept the length quite short and the details quite minimalist so that it is ready to wear with mid to high rise dress trousers and will compliment many outfit styles.  Since the rise of your trousers can vary greatly, I’ve included instructions on how to measure and lengthen the pattern pieces to suit any pair of pants.  A properly fitted waistcoat should cover the entire trouser waistband…this is not easy to accomplish with a store bought waistcoat  but it is exceptionally easy to do when you sew one yourself!

Belvedere Waistcoat-24

While I talk about fit, you have probably noticed that the waistcoat back is completely devoid of a belt!  This minimalism is rarely found in off the rack waistcoats but is common when you order a custom waistcoat from a tailor.  You can use the curved centre back seam and long darts to perfectly fit the Belvedere to the person who will wear it.  There is no need for a ‘one size fits most’ cinching belt.  If you like the extra flare that a belt adds to a waistcoat, don’t worry!  I will be releasing a free pattern download quite soon so that you can choose one of two styles to add to your Belvedere.

Belvedere Waistcoat-1

In fact, I will be releasing a whole menu of free ‘add-ons’ so you can customise the Belvedere to your heart’s content.  Please feel free to request a certain pocket or collar style!  These interesting details will be offered separately from the base pattern so that you only need to print the elements that you need.  I also wanted to avoid over-complicating the pattern and instruction booklet so that it would remain approachable for novice sewists!

Belvedere Waistcoat-2

We will begin the Waistcoat Sew-along on May 19th and will roll out all sorts of posts on fitting to a variety of body types, altering the Belvedere to match your suit jacket, changing the shape of the hem, adding thoughtful personalized details, and, of course, the nitty gritty of completing the basic waistcoat sewing process.

Belvedere Waistcoat-8

The sew-along will finish in time for Father’s Day gift giving!  Take it from Matt and I…your dad will be VERY honoured to receive a custom sewn waistcoat!

Belvedere Waistcoat-23

I hope you will join us during our sew-along!  It will be very informative for both new and experienced sewists.  In the meantime, stay tuned for the release of our Belvedere Kit and all manner of tailoring supplies in the shop!

Belvedere Waistcoat-7

Thank you to my Granddad, Dad, and Matt’s Dad for being such enthusiastic (and classy!) models.  All three of them looked exceptionally elegant in their Belvedere Waistcoats.

Belvedere Waistcoat-14

And thanks, also, to the White Whale pub for accommodating our rowdy family photoshoot!

Belvedere Waistcoat-4

Belvedere Waistcoat-6

Download the Belvedere (20% off May 2nd and 3rd only!) >


6 Comments

Imminent Launch Day

I thought you might like to know that we have a new PDF pattern ready to launch next week!  The Belvedere Waistcoat will be here in time for Father’s Day projects and summer weddings!

Belvedere Waistcoat-5

I’m working on some finishing touches today to prepare for a large selection of goodies we will be launching alongside this pattern.  So I’ll keep it short and sweet today.

Belvedere Waistcoat-4

There will be a release day discount code for this pattern so make sure you are signed up to the newsletter or to this blog to ensure you will be informed of the code.


41 Comments

Happy Birthday – we have a new pattern!

lazo-trousers

The Lazo Trousers – our second pattern for women – is live in our shop!

lazo-trousers-17

These trousers are designed to flatter an hourglass figure by hugging the curves while maintaining complete comfort.  They have a wide, shaped waistband from which the pants hang like a skirt.  There is no pressure across the hips or thighs due to the roomy pleats and tapered leg.

lazo-trousers-11

 

There are two variations included within this pattern – one is full length and the other is a cropped trouser with wide cuffs and statement belt loops.  Of course, you can mix and match variations by adding belt looks to the full length version!

camasblouse-1

This pattern, as many of you know, has been in the works for the last four years – in fact, the design itself pre-dates Thread Theory!  I developed these pants, along with the Camas Blouse, for my end of year fashion show during design school.  My goal for my fashion line was to create elegant garments that do not sacrifice comfort.  These trousers, in particular, were designed to combat a myriad of issues that I have with most women’s casual pants…the narrow waistband digs in to my lower tummy, there is never enough room for my bum, and I tend to feel a bit like a sausage stuffed in to its casing due to the tight fit across the hips and thighs.  I prefer to wear close fitting trousers so that I can balance them with loose fitting tops (so wide leg trousers aren’t an option in my daily casual wardrobe).  The Lazo Trousers were my answer to all of these complaints and criteria.

lazo-trousers-26

lazo-trousers-25

Maybe they are the answer to your pant related complaints too!  When I posted photos of the trousers on my blog (which was very new at that time), I received such an enthusiastic response that I decided to develop a couple of women’s patterns to compliment our menswear line.

Our 4th birthday:

lazo-trousers-12

Fast forward over four years later to Thread Theory’s 4th birthday, and the trousers are available at last!  We’ve launched them today to help us celebrate this anniversary and to thank you, our predominantly female community, for enthusiastically supporting our menswear supply shop and pattern line over the last four years.  THANK YOU!!!

logo

As another way to celebrate, Matt and I are giving back to an organisation that is close to our hearts.  50% of proceeds from each Lazo Trouser sale will be donated to Help Fill A Dream.  This is a Vancouver Island based organisation that assists children with life threatening conditions by fulfilling their dreams and by providing care and financial support for their families.  You can read more about their efforts and the dreams they have filled on their website.

This organisation means a lot to me because I was diagnosed with Leukaemia when I was a toddler.  Help Fill a Dream gave my family and I something to look forward to while I went through chemotherapy by promising me a trip to Disneyland.  As a young child, unable to comprehend what I was going through, the trip to Disneyland remains my only memory of the whole ordeal.  I can only wish that every child facing such health challenges could grow up healthy and look back on that period of their life with such fondness!

Behind the Scenes – Pattern Development:

FashionShow-50

Now that you know the inside scoop on our birthday celebrations, here is a look behind the scenes during the Lazo Trousers development process:

As you can probably guess, based on the four year time frame required to complete this pattern, there were quite a few snags along the way.  First, I had to gain confidence in my fitting skills before even considering developing a pattern designed to fit the hip, crotch and waist curves of a woman’s figure!  Helping all of you with your menswear fitting challenges has, of course, given me a fairly diverse amount of experience.  I also took a women’s trouser fitting workshop two summers ago to compliment the fitting class that I attended during my design program.

The next challenge was the pattern testing process.  I sent the pattern to volunteers with a large variety of body shapes and sizes.  I also sewed up many samples to try on the women in my own life.  After this experience I was given a HUGE amount of feedback by my generous testers and fit models…it took me months to wade through it all! I then tweaked the pattern and pretty much re-wrote the instructions based on this wonderful feedback.  During this process I came to terms with a very important concept: One trouser pattern will never fit everyone…especially not this one!  These trousers are quite a unique style that were drafted to fit body type.  They are meant to flatter someone who has a large difference between their waist and hip measurements (i.e. an hourglass figure) and to fit someone with a fairly rounded bottom and flat stomach (their hip circumference is mostly distributed towards the back).  Even someone with the exact figure I just described will still need to fit this pattern to themselves because the human body is incredibly unique.  If you don’t have an hourglass figure but long for the Lazos in your wardrobe, go ahead and give them a try!  I bet, with a muslin, some fitting and tweaking of the style, you can sew yourself a pair of perfect trousers!  Just be prepared to do a little bit of extra work before achieving the results that you want.

lazo-trousers-5

Don’t let my talk of fitting scare you off of sewing trousers!  Just think, store bought trousers are not fitted to your figure and you have probably been wearing these more or less successfully your whole life!  A few simple fit adjustments will produce trousers that are REALLY comfortable because they are tailored to your body.  I have included side seams on the Lazo waistband to make it easy to fit your unique waist to hip curve.  I have illustrated quite a few tips within the instruction booklet to help you fit to your lower back, bottom and crotch curve.  I will also be photographing some important fitting techniques on the blog in the coming weeks.

Let’s sew Lazos!

Ready to tackle a pair of trousers?  I will be posting a list of recommended fabrics tomorrow!  In the meantime, you can find the awesome buckles that I used for my favourite sample in our shop.

Grab a pair to use on your own Lazos! >

lazo-hack-contest

Lastly, we’re hosting a fun Lazo Hack contest.  The purpose of the contest is to show off your creative manipulation of this pattern by sharing your tips, tutorials, sketches, and finished Lazo projects.  Submit photos or illustrations using #lazotrousers on Facebook or Instagram or email them to me at info@threadtheory.ca.  I will be handing out prizes at random until January 31st.  This means, the earlier you submit your images, the more chances you have at winning a prize!

lazo-trousers-7

An upcoming post on recommended materials for the Lazo will feature more details about the contest and my own ideas to hack the pattern.

Download your Lazo Trouser Pattern now >


 

imgp9555

Thanks again, from Matt and I, for your enthusiastic support of our menswear supply shop and for making the last four years so much fun!  Happy Birthday to Thread Theory 😀

P.S. Please comment below if you have any questions about fitting your figure.  I am preparing the fitting blog post and will launch it next Friday Dec. 23rd.  Now is the time to ask so that you can have your questions answered!

 

 

 

 


27 Comments

New Pattern: Meet the Fairfield Button-up Shirt

Introducing Fairfield Button-up

I’m really excited to share with you our brand new menswear pattern!

Fairfield Buttonup 2

The Fairfield Button-up Shirt is a classic menswear staple with a modern fit and a great selection of design details.  We haven’t cut any corners here – your finished project will be just as finely sewn as any shirt you find in a menswear shop!

Fairfield-Button-Up-7

The Design:

Fairfield Buttonup Illustrations

The Fairfield features a modern narrow collar complete with a collar stand.  This collar style is a great neutral design that looks neither excessively trendy or dated.

Fairfield-Button-Up-36

The shirt includes a built-on button placket at center front.  Built-on plackets make for less bulky seam allowances to trim and for easier pattern matching when sewing with plaids and prints.

Fairfield-Button-Up-40

We’ve included a nicely shaped pocket design to add to the left chest.

Fairfield Buttonup 1

To fit the back of the shirt you can choose between a small pleat for a little bit of wearing ease…

Fairfield Buttonup-29

…or you can sew the shaped darts to create a smart form-fitting shirt

Fairfield-Button-Up-10

Both variations include a yoke and yoke facing so that all shoulder seams are enclosed.

The sleeves are moderately slim and feature a proper tower placket – something that is very hard to find on most shirt patterns and that I feel is an essential element of a menswear button-up!

Fairfield-Button-Up-34

The sleeves also include the option for interior tabs that can be used to keep the rolled sleeves in place at the elbow.

Fairfield Buttonup-22

The cuffs feature a very slightly rounded corners for added interest.

Fairfield-Button-Up-31

The shirt hem is curved just enough to allow the shirt to be worn both tucked in or untucked depending on the fabric choice (dressy or very casual).

Fairfield Buttonup-28

The Sizing:

Now that we’ve addressed all the design features, let’s talk about who this pattern we’ll fit!

We’ve expanded our size range to extend to 4XL.  You can see the complete size chart as the last product image on our website.

Our pattern includes two separate pattern files: One drafted for average figures and one for larger figures.  The size ranges overlap so that you can choose which proportions you would like to work with based on the wearer’s body measurements and the measurements of their favorite shirt.

The pattern drafted for larger figures accommodates a rounded stomach and/or wide waist measurement.

I’ve included a new detailed page within our instruction booklet that I will likely add to all of our patterns from now on – it explains which the most important measurements are and how to take them.

The Extras:

We have all sorts of extras lined up for this pattern!

First of all, we’ve created a new Quick Reference Guide to accompany the instruction booklet.  This is a one page set of brief instructions that you can have by your sewing machine once the Fairfield has become your tried and true button-up.  You won’t need the long booklet and illustrations any more; all that you’ll need are subtle reminders of the sewing process and seam allowances.  The Quick Reference Guide will provide those at a glance!

Secondly, we have free Add-on pattern pieces!  When I asked you which design features you wanted to add to your button-up shirt projects you enthusiastically responded with MANY ideas.  It was wonderful to have such a rich and varied checklist to work with while designing this pattern!

I didn’t want to add the huge array of design features to the base pattern because this would create an overwhelmingly large and complicated pattern and set of instructions.  Instead, I’ve created the base Fairfield pattern and have also created a great selection of free “Add Ons” that we will be rolling out over the coming weeks.

Stay tuned for:

  • Some very trendy collar styles
  • A variety of cuff shapes
  • A few pocket choices
  • Short sleeves

These “Add Ons” will be added to our shop as free products (just like our Arrowsmith Undershirt pattern).  When you download them you receive the PDF pattern file and the instructions for these specific pattern pieces.

The Sew-Along:

We will be hosting a Fairfield Button-up Sew-along beginning May 16th!  If you follow along with the sew-along schedule you will have plenty of time to finish a button-up shirt as a gift for your dad this Father’s Day!  I will post more details about the sew-along schedule in a few days so that you can begin to prepare.  I’m looking forward to sewing with you again!

What about the Tissue Pattern?

As with most of our pattern releases, the Fairfield is only available as a PDF pattern right now.  We like to save up the proceeds from the PDF sales to pay for the printing costs of the tissue pattern.

As always, if you really want to start sewing the Fairfield but prefer to own a tissue pattern, you can purchase the PDF pattern for now and then have the full cost of the PDF refunded at the time of the Tissue Pattern launch.  To receive the refund, wait until Tissue Pattern launch day and email us with your PDF pattern attached or your PDF pattern order number.  In exchange we will send you a discount code to use towards your Tissue Pattern purchase.

Also in the Shop:

I’ve compiled all of my favorite shirt making tools, notions and fabrics and added them to our shop!

We have everything from delicious Hemp & Organic Cotton Shirting to a sewing gauge designed to make spacing button holes a snap.  Here’s a peek at what’s in store.  I will post about these items in more detail in a separate post so that you can get acquainted with them!

Shirtmaking Supplies

Time to start sewing button-ups!  Head to our shop to check out the pattern and all of the shirtmaking supplies >

Fairfield-Button-Up-22


4 Comments

Pattern Release on Monday!

Fairfield Button Up Shirt (27)

Big news:  The Fairfield Button-up Shirt PDF pattern will be released to the world this Monday, May 2nd!

Along with this new pattern there will be a comprehensive selection of shirt making tools, fabrics and notions added to our shop.  All of the resources necessary for your shirt making endeavors will be at your fingertips!

Fairfield Button Up Shirt (28)

The Fairfield Button-Up PDF will be 20% off for newsletter subscribers next week!  In case you are curious, the newsletter subscription isn’t the same thing as subscribing to our blog.  We only send out the occasional newsletter to let you know about new patterns, products or sale prices. Subscribe now to make sure the discount arrives in your inbox on launch day!