Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!


In Honor of Coat Sewing Month: New Fouled Anchor Buttons

Thread Theory Coat Sewing Supplies

Indie Sew was on the ball this January (as per usual!) and ushered in the first days of January with the proclamation that it is Coat Sewing Month!  As I’m sure is the case with many other sewists, coat sewing has been on my mind of late.  I have a new Goldstream Peacoat in the works for Matt and today is an exciting launch day that is very relevant to sewing coats.

Let me introduce to you the newest item in the Thread Theory shop: Fouled Anchor Buttons!

Thread Theory Peacoat Sewing-2

These incredibly detailed, especially strong buttons with a soft sheen were custom manufactured for me by a button carving company in Panama City.  They are made from Tagua Nuts (otherwise known as Corozo) which have been sustainably harvested by members of high altitude South American villages.  The nuts fall from the trees naturally and are collected from the ground which allows harvesting to have a very low environmental impact.  The work allows members of these communities to stay in their traditional locations rather than migrate to the cities to find income.

Thread Theory Peacoat Sewing-3

Tagua nut buttons are often referred to as ‘vegetable ivory’ buttons in notions shops.  They are not commonly found in chain fabric stores but I have come across them a few times in boutique fabric or button stores.  If you have never handled a Tagua nut button in person, you are probably wondering how they differ in feel from plastic or wood buttons.  Tagua Nuts are incredibly dense which results in a button that has a satisfying weight to it (similar to the weight of a bone button).  Their density also means that they are especially strong – they won’t crack like plastic or wood buttons and they can be carved with awe-inspiring detail.

When choosing the button design I wanted a button that would nod to the historic use of a fouled anchor design on British and American navy Peacoats.  As you can see, the carving is very similar to the design used by the American Federal navy during the civil war:

Fouled Anchor Button Navy


These buttons include a shallow shank so that they will sit flush against your wool coat when buttoned.  They are a pure jet black so that they are not too flashy for menswear (or women’s coats for that matter) and will allow your fabric or coat design to be the main statement.

Thread Theory Buttons for Sonia-7

As far as high quality Corozo Buttons go, we were able to price these very reasonably.  I ordered a huge number of buttons so that we could make these as affordable as possible for you!  A boxed set of six 1″ buttons is $18 CAD.

I’m really thrilled with how these buttons turned out and I found the design and ordering process to be loads of fun!  I hope that you guys will love these buttons for your various coat projects as much as I do.  If feedback is enthusiastic I look forward to working with the same button manufacturer in the future – the combination of ethical manufacturing and the high quality buttons that result certainly gets me pretty excited about buttons!


Now, to continue on with this post all about sewing coats, here is a compendium of all things ‘coat’!

The latest Goldstream Peacoats sewn by you:

Parissy Goldstream Peacoat

A very dressy and classy Golstream with contrast epaulets and sleeve tabs on the blog Par Issy.

Goldstream Peacoat by ptitsmonstres

A beautifully customized and color coordinated royal blue Goldstream on the blog P’tits Monstres.  Check out the love message on the pocket flap lining!


Coat Making around the Internet

Coat celebrations over at Indie Sew:

Indie Sew Coat Month

Lots of sewing is taking place at Fancy Tiger Crafts this month:

Fancy Tiger Coat Sew-Along

Rachel of House of Pinheiro finished this Peacoat sew along last year – it is an excellent reference:


House of Pinheiro Coat Sew-Along

Of course, the Cascade Duffle Coat Sew-Along by Grainline Studio is a valuable series for anyone interested in sewing a coat:

Cascade Coat Sew-along Grainline Studio

Our Tailored Peacoat Series is a great way to delve deep into adding structure to your coat.  Pick and choose the elements that you feel you can achieve!

Tailored Peacoat Series


Coat Making in the Thread Theory shop:

Thread Theory Coat Sewing Supplies

Goldstream Peacoat Sewing Pattern: This features a slim fit and a simplified construction process making it an excellent ‘first coat’ pattern.

The Goldstream Peacoat Tailoring Supplies Kit: The materials included within this kit are suited to any double breasted coat pattern whether it be designed for men or women!

Wool Shoulder Pads: These shoulder pads add a modern amount of subtle structure to the shoulders – don’t worry, you won’t be left with bulky shoulders reminiscent of the 80’s! These pads are suited to both males or females.

Fouled Anchor Buttons: I don’t think these need any more glowing introduction than I already gave! 😛

Sleeve Heads: Sleeve heads help prevent the dimple common at the very top of the sleeve.  These are suitable for men’s and women’s coats

Bemberg Lining: This lining feels so dreamy!  The rich wine color pairs nicely with both brown or black wools.

One Savile Row: This visually stunning book is all about Gieves & Hawkes of Savile Row and is absolutely chock full of the most beautiful coats I have ever seen!



Lastly, here is how I will be involved in Coat Month – I will be tucked away in my sewing room working on this:

Thread Theory Peacoat Sewing-1

This is a picture from mid December…I am farther along on the coat making process but not by much!  I hope to have Matt’s Goldstream Peacoat finished by the end of January.  Thanks, Indiesew, for encouraging me to get sewing this month!

Please check out the new Fouled Anchor Buttons and consider adding them to your current favorite coat or to your future coat project – you can find them in the shop here.