Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!


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Just launched: Two men’s jeans patterns

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I’m so excited to share with you not one, but two new patterns today!  We have been working over the last year to create the perfect men’s jeans pattern and wound up creating two designs with different fits: Meet the Quadra Jeans and Fulford Jeans!

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Both patterns are available in size 28-50 which is a far bigger size range than our Jedediah Pants and Jutland Pants include!

I’ll walk you through the Quadra Jeans first:  They are part of the Parkland Collection which means they are a casual wardrobe staple tending towards a modern, slim fit.

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The Quadra Jeans feature a subtly tapered leg, a little extra room in the thighs, and a moderate low rise.

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You can sew these jeans in denim with no stretch or up to 2% elastane for added flexibility.  They include all of the classic jeans details including a zipper fly, strengthening topstitching, flatfell inseams, rivets on high stress areas, and a jeans button.

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I’ve included a unique feature, as far as jeans go to make fitting easier for the home sewist:  The waistband is cleverly sewn with a center back seam (as you would often see in men’s dress trousers).  This center back seam features regular 5/8″ seam allowances so if you are sewing for a man with a fluctuating waistline or are sewing the jeans as a surprise gift, they are easy to adjust larger or smaller even after they are fully constructed!  The seam is completely hidden beneath the center back belt loop so the waistband looks like it would on classic jeans.

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The Quadras look great sewn in denim or other trouser weight materials.  I used Cone Mills denim with 1% elastane for our first sample and a cotton twill for our second sample:

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You can see the taper of the leg well in the photo below.

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Now you are well acquainted with the Quadra Jeans, let’s have a look at the Fulford Jeans!

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This is a classic straight leg design with just a slight curve at the hips (which can easily be removed if you would like to use selvage denim – I will go over this in the sew-along!)

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They include a higher rise than the Quadras (just below the waist) and a roomier fit at the knees and calves in a manner reminiscent of vintage work jeans.

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Just like the Quadras, they include all the details you would expect – lots of topstitching, a yoke, a coin pocket and plenty of bartacks.  They also include a zipper fly.

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When sewn in a brushed cotton they make a lovely casual trouser.

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The Fulford fit was a bit unfamiliar to our younger model (my sewing friend’s obliging husband, Scott) as he is more used to the lower rise of the Quadras.  The Fulford rise, on the other hand, was exactly the height that Matt’s dad, Rick, is used to (who was photographed in the denim version of the Fulford Jeans).

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Here you can see the roomier fit in the lower legs due to the straight cut:

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Each pattern includes incredibly detailed instructions done using the same construction method as our Jedediah Pants and Jutland Pants (so if you have sewn either of those patterns, you will find these a breeze!).  I’ve more than doubled the amount of diagrams included compared to the Jedediah Pants since I know that many of us are very visual sewists.

If you are more familiar with the construction method included in Closet Case jeans patterns or a different order of construction from a beloved vintage pattern (for instance), you will be relieved to know that our pattern pieces will work perfectly well with other construction methods – just sub in your favourite set of instructions instead of using ours.

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That being said, I am very proud of the results our method produces and can’t wait to share the sew-along I’ve been working on with you!  We’ll be talking about fitting, I’ll share detailed photos of sewing the fly, and I can answer any questions you might have along the way…stay tuned for the start of the sew along in a couple of weeks (date tbd soon!).

In addition to our two new patterns, we’ve also dropped a myriad of high quality jeans-making notions and tools in the shop today!

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First up, we have beautiful blank Kraft-tex labels to stitch onto your jeans waistband:

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Kraft-tex washable paper is back in stock by the 1/2 m for your bag and wallet making projects and I’ve cut some of it into perfect jeans labels so you don’t need to purchase more than the tiny quantity needed to add to your jeans.  I love to leave the label blank as a way to catch people’s eye…these jeans don’t have a brand name!  You could also print on the label with waterproof ink.  Each label costs only $2 CAD so it is a very affordable way to add a special touch to your jeans project.

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In addition to the Talon zippers we’ve stocked for many years, we now offer 7″ and 8″ Countess zippers in classic navy and brass.  The 7″ length is suitable for the Quadra Jeans sizes 26-38 while the 8″ is perfect for the Quadra Jeans sizes 40-50 and the Fulford Jeans sizes 26-38.

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Prym rivet kits are now available in the shop.  I’ve tested out many hardware kits while developing these jeans patterns and this is the set with which I am 100% pleased.  The included tools are good quality and make installation very secure with only the addition of a hammer and firm table.  I love that the rivets include two “right sides” – a smooth gunmetal side and a dimpled copper side.

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The copper set looks stunning against dark denim!

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We also carry a silver set which features the gunmetal alternative as well.  Each set includes enough rivets for four pairs of jeans!

To pair with the Prym rivets, you will find two new jeans button kits available, also by Prym.

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In the photo above you can see the silver button we’ve stocked in our shop for some time now.  In the middle is my favourite copper Prym button (measuring a classic 17mm).  On the right is the larger art deco Prym button (measuring 20mm) whose proportions are pleasing on heavy weight work jeans.  Both button sets include the necessary tools for installation and feature enough buttons to make many pairs of jeans.

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Lastly, if you plan to sew multiple pairs of jeans or if hardware application really makes you nervous, you’ll be pleased to find some installation tools in the shop!  The Prym pliers work for everything from rivets to snaps (they’re great for applying those plastic snaps to baby clothes…speaking from experience here!) and the tripod is an excellent choice for those with decreased dexterity (it stabilises the tiny pieces for you leaving your hands well away from the hammer).

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I hope you agree that our jeans patterns are filling a void in the world of menswear sewing and that you are excited to get sewing denim with me!

I’ll be sharing the details about the sew-along and also some of our wonderful test sewer’s versions on the blog shortly.

Choose your new jean pattern in our shop: Quadra Jeans or Fulford Jeans.

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Thank you for your help! (And here’s a discount code as way of thanks.)

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Thanks to everyone who submitted a comment on the last blog offering their sewing talents!  I’ve selected several test sewers who are busily working away on the new pattern right now.

Please don’t be discouraged if we didn’t select you to test this time!  We try to select a fresh variety of testers for each pattern so please apply next time if you are still interested!

To thank you for following the blog and for your enthusiasm each time I call for testers, here is a 15% off coupon code that you can use any time!  THANKSFORREADING  The code will never expire and will give you 15% off you entire order.  Head to our shop to use the code >

(In case you’re wondering, the above picture is of our cat, Jazzy, trying to commandeer the newly assembled crib as her own…don’t worry, we’ve since worked on some serious cat training and the crib now remains safely cat free!)


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(CLOSED) Call for Testers: Are you well versed in sewing bottoms?

Well, this is it!  Our next pattern is ready for test sewing!  Would you like to be involved?

This time we are looking for sewists who are well versed in sewing bottoms – be that dress trousers, jeans or any other style of pant.

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Have you sewn the Jedediah or Jutland Pants?  Then you would be a perfect candidate!  Or perhaps you have tried out women’s pants such as any of the Closet Case Files jeans or some of the many amazing overall patterns that were launched in the last year.  If you’re interested in transferring your trouser sewing skills to menswear, then please apply!

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To apply, please comment on this blog post with a brief explanation of the following:

  1.  A summary of your bottoms/pants/trousers/jeans sewing experience.
  2. Your interest and experience in nicely photographing your finished tester project so that we can later share it on the blog (this isn’t necessary but is a great bonus for me!).
  3.  The size your male recipient usually fits so that I can be sure our new pattern is tested in a wide range of sizes.

Testers will be selected this Wednesday and you will have two weeks to sew our new pattern.

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Thank you so much for your enthusiasm!  Your help is essential in ensuring our patterns are easy to understand, have a consistent fit for all sizes, and aren’t riddled with typos.  I can’t wait to hear from you!


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We’re celebrating Father’s Day with new patterns!

Father's Day 2018

Happy Father’s Day!  If you live in North America, Father’s Day is this Sunday, June 17th.

Toby K Patterns Fehr Trade Thread Theory menswear

We’re celebrating by increasing our pattern offering once again – this time, we’ve collaborated with indie designers Fehr Trade and Toby K Patterns to make their menswear designs available in our shop!

Toby K Patterns Thread Theory menswear

Even if you don’t have time to sew for Dad before the big day, I think it would be lovely to take him out for a coffee or beer (depending on his preference!) and dream up his perfect custom garment together.

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Does he cycle?  Fehr Trade patterns would be an excellent fit for him – you could sew him the perfect cycling jersey, running top, or long underwear with just the right pockets and fit that he requires.

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Or perhaps he needs something cozy but stylish?

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Toby K Patterns have shared three of their stylish sweater designs with our shop.  Each of their patterns include seemingly endless possibilities for customisation.  Their sweater designs all include the option for cosy thumbhole cuffs and you can mix and match pocket styles.

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If you would prefer to gift something finished for Dad, you still have time for a little bit of sewing!  Check out this quick beanie pattern which is a great scrap buster:

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We have more indie pattern company collaborations lined up for the future.  I hope you are enjoying this new wealth of choice in our shop!  The above photos are just a sampling of the new designs – be sure to check out the others by scrolling through all of our PDF offerings!

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Thank you, to the always friendly and always collaborative indie pattern community for happily adding your menswear designs to the Thread Theory pattern library.  Let’s keep this growing!


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Look who has joined us! New PDF Patterns

New Era of Menswear

People often tell us that they are thrilled to have stumbled upon our shop because their choices are so limited for menswear sewing patterns and we have worked hard to rectify this.  While this is true in comparison to the proliferation of gorgeous, trendy women’s styles available, we feel that the indie sewing community has done an excellent job of beginning to fill the menswear void along with us.  Menswear sewing patterns are no longer few and far between – let’s celebrate this!

COLLABORATION IS KEY

In order to foster a sense of community and to bring menswear to the forefront of the online sewing world, we’ve decided to attempt to gather all the excellent menswear PDF patterns together and make them available in one, easy-to-find place: Our Thread Theory website.  Most of these well-designed menswear patterns have been created by companies who usually focus on women’s fashion.  By joining us and sharing their patterns in our shop, we hope they will be easier for you (the menswear sewists) to peruse and compare all in one place and all in one similar format.

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So, without further ado, let me introduce you to the first designs to join our Thread Theory patterns in the PDF shop!

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As you can see, these designs would make a great capsule wardrobe for summer – choose your tee, your preferred over shirt, your casual pants, shorts, and swim shorts to sew everything you need for a summer vacation!

All of these patterns offer something you will not be able to find in our Thread Theory range – whether this be larger sizes or unique style lines (since we focus on basics).

New PDF pattern companies - Mimi G

Many of these patterns are from SewSew Def Magazine which is a collaboration between blogging powerhouses Mimi G Style and Norris Danta Ford.  They kindly featured our Finlayson Sweater in an early issue of the magazine so we are thrilled to be able to work with these designers in a new way by offering their patterns in our shop!  You’ll find six PDF patterns on offer in our shop – I can’t quite pick a favourite as I’m torn between the innovative seaming on their Wooster Cargo Shorts and my love for the namesake of their Gosling Button-up Shirt. 😉

New PDF pattern companies - Wolf and Tree and True Bias

The two other designers I’m proud to feature in our shop are The Wolf and the Tree and True Bias.

The Wolf and the Tree offer a very inclusive t-shirt pattern which is available in two separate size ranges – Regular (S-XL) and Big and Tall (XLT-4XLT).  This versatile tee features crew and v-neck options as well as instructions to finish with hems or bands.

 

True Bias is the designer who created the iconic women’s Hudson Pants, of course!  We now carry Kelli’s men’s version which fills a big hole in our available designs – no menswear pattern shop would be complete without the most comfortable of lounge wear!

Based on the enthusiastic response we’ve received from other pattern companies, you should be able to anticipate the introduction of a large variety of other PDF patterns to our shop over the coming weeks and months.  Thank you for sharing your favourite menswear patterns when I requested feedback in a previous blog post – we’ve found some real gems based on your comments!

And thank you, to our inaugural designers, for your enthusiasm and support as we work towards our goal of pushing menswear to the forefront of the sewing world.  We’re so glad to have you on board!

Shop our PDF catalogue >


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The Sayward Raglan sewing pattern is here!

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Let’s welcome the Sayward Raglan – an excellent addition to your spring or summer sewing plans!

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Our newest pattern is a casual and flattering raglan t-shirt with short and long sleeve variations.  We also included instructions and cutting layouts to walk you through the process of creating a color-blocked tee (à la the classic baseball tee).

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Raglan t-shirts have many benefits for both the sewist and the wearer.  From the wearer’s perspective, the raglan sleeves have been curved in just the right way to create the appearance of a strong chest.  Very flattering!

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From the sewist’s perspective, the process of attaching a raglan sleeve is a breeze in comparison to wrangling the curve of a classic t-shirt sleeve head.  Raglan sleeves eliminate the one tricky step in the t-shirt sewing process to result in a quick project that can be cut, fitted and sewn in the space of a single relaxing evening.

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Our interpretation of the raglan t-shirt features an easy fitting (but not boxy!) body and sleeves.  When compared to our slim-fitting Strathcona Henley, this t-shirt is far less figure hugging and thus will fit a broader range of body types.  It also features an extended size range compared to the Strathcona Henley – up to 4XL!

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If fitted is more your style, the instructions include easy steps to fit as you sew (so that you can create the slim sleeves and body that you desire on the go).

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The neckline on our raglan is a relaxed crew-neck.  It is not as tight as a classic crew-neck t-shirt making for a slightly more youthful/stylish look that works well with thick or thin necks (no one wants a tight crew neck choking them on a hot summer’s day!).

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I’ve sewn the first of our two main samples in a combination of heathered grey tencel and organic cotton french terry for the body paired with a white cotton interlock for the sleeves:

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Matt reports that the thick and soft end result makes for a very comfortable t-shirt and I have been surprised to see him wearing it on hot spring days!  He says it breaths nicely and he doesn’t overheat despite the cozy loft provided by the french terry loops.  I’m pleased with this result because the french terry is SO easy to sew – it is stable, does not curl and it behaves more or less like a cotton woven fabric.  It would be a great option for a beginner sewist to use.

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Jayden’s version is sewn with the same tencel and cotton french terry body paired with bamboo and cotton french terry sleeves and neck binding.  All the terry fabrics come from my favourite local sewing studio – The Spool Sewing Studio.

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I also sewed a solid version (no color-blocking) to show you that the raglan sleeves are not very noticable when no color-blocking is employed.  The end result can be worn as would any basic t-shirt!  This fabric is a cotton and spandex blend jersey in navy with tiny anchors.  I found it at my local Fabricland.

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If you are new to sewing knits, this is an excellent pattern for you to start with.  As always with our knit patterns I include instructions for sewing with a regular sewing machine or with a serger.  I instruct how to hem with a twin needle or a zig zag stitch.

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A sew-along will begin next Friday, May 18th.  You can easily have your first raglan tee finished in time for Father’s Day (or in time to clear your sewing queue for our next pattern release in June!!!!).

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I hope you like our newest pattern!  It has been one of our top request (second only to a button-up shirt) since we launched Thread Theory.  No wonder – it’s fun to sew and easy to wear!

Read more about the Sayward Raglan >

Share your Sayward on Instagram or Facebook using #saywardraglan


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Call for testers! – Closed April 27/18

It’s that time again!  We have a pattern ready for test sewers – would you like to join the team?

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This time around we are looking for 5 test sewers who can complete the project in one week.  This might sound like a short deadline but don’t worry, it is realistic for the amount of sewing time needed for this quick wardrobe staple!

Please comment below to volunteer if you match one (or more) of the following criteria:

  1. You will be sewing for someone who is likely at one or the other end of our newly expanded size range (XS-4XL).  You are willing to thoroughly use our body and garment measurement charts and comment on our sizing and fit.
  2. You are brand new to sewing knits and can give your opinion on the approach-ability of the instruction booklet from this perspective.
  3. You are extremely detail oriented and can give excellent feedback on grammatical errors, the clarity of the instructions, and the clarity of the diagrams within the instruction booklet.

What do you think?  Is test sewing right up your alley?