Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!


Secret Weapon: How to sew perfect buttonholes on to delicate fabrics


I recently sewed an extremely delicate and drapey silk Camas Blouse as a guest blogger contribution to the Britex blog.  It featured a very soft silk jersey knit and I added a contrast panel to the back of the blouse using a floaty grey silk chiffon.  The result was a blouse almost as light as air!  To tell you the truth, it feels a bit disconcerting to wear – almost like I’m wearing nothing!  It was also quite disconcerting to sew – I had to employ some creative thinking and secret weapons to ensure the delicate fabric wasn’t destroyed by my sewing machine.  Apart from experimenting with a variety of needles (I chose a thin and sharp needle) and using fine silk thread (thoughtfully provided by Britex for my project), I also used my favorite trick for sewing buttonholes which I will share with you today:

Let me introduce to you my secret weapon for perfect buttonholes (even on the lightest, stretchiest or unruly of fabrics): Tear-away embroidery stabilizer!


The stabilizer I chose features a very lightly sticky side that adheres to your project just enough to prevent slipping and doesn’t stretch or tear even the most delicate knit when it is removed.untitled-19When I was ready to stitch my buttonholes I cut a strip of tear-away stabilizer slightly wider than the button placket.

I peeled off the backing (the half with blue markings on it) and applied it to the wrong side of the button placket (the inside of the shirt).untitled-23

This is what it looks like from the right side of the shirt:untitled-25

This is what it looks like from the wrong side of the shirt:untitled-26

Then I went ahead and stitched the buttonholes on my machine as per normal.  I placed the stabilizer/wrong side of the shirt against the bed of my sewing machine – this prevents the knit fabric from being sucked down into the bobbin chamber.untitled-27

And look at how beautifully the button hole turned out!untitled-29

From the wrong side you can see that the act of stitching the buttonhole has pretty much torn the stabilizer off of the placket.untitled-30

It takes hardly any effort to rip off the stabilizer from the placket:untitled-33

And voila!  A perfect placket of buttonholes!

I hope you find this to be a useful trick when sewing your next buttonholed Camas Blouse!  It would be useful for all manner of detailed sewing tasks paired with delicate fabrics.  I’d like to try it out when sewing bras, I bet it would really help when top-stitching along the cradle of the Watson Bra!

Have you tried sewing with tear-away stabilizer?  Do you have any tricks and tips to add to this tutorial?


Every Day Uniform


If I had to wear the same outfit every day, this is probably what you would find me wearing – a Camas Blouse made from a thick, sturdy cotton knit and some form of stretch denim pant.  It’s practical (for walking our dog, Luki, a million times a day in all manner of weather!), presentable, and super comfortable.StrathCamasCascade-14

This cotton knit is from Girl Charlee.  While it is listed as black with a pink tie dye wash, the fabric I received is definitely navy blue with no sign of pink on it!  The fabric is listed as a cotton spandex blend with a 40% stretch but, in my experience, this fabric isn’t very stretchy and it is a bit heavier than your average t-shirt fabric.  It feels like 100% cotton to me.  I purchased this fabric quite some time ago and was confused when it arrived since it differed so greatly from the description.  All the same, I was happier with the fabric I received than the fabric I had ordered (I wasn’t keen on the subtle tie dye wash) so it was a lucky discrepancy!StrathCamasCascade-10

I realize you can’t actually see much of the blouse in the above photos – Luki really wanted in on the photo shoot and who am I to say no?  Below is a clearer photo of the blouse though.  This was one of the first photos we took and I had forgotten to remove my toque so I look a bit goofy in a winter toque with only a light blouse on!  Ah well :).

If you are planning to sew a Camas Blouse but are a little nervous to tackle the details while battling with a thin jersey, I’d highly recommend using a thick t-shirt knit such as this one.  It was very easy to work with – it stretched and shifted so little and it ironed easily…it was almost as easy as working with quilting cotton!  The all over print makes hemming and top-stitching a breeze too.


Cascades of royal purple faux-suede glamour


Here are the very first results from my New Year sewing plans (I posted the pattern choices and colour scheme for my wardrobe update a couple weeks ago)!  I sewed myself a Camas Blouse and a Cascade Skirt as a Christmas and New Years outfit.  The skirt was finished in time for the many Christmas dinners we attended so it isn’t exactly part of my wardrobe update plans (as they hadn’t been made yet when I sewed this) but since it fits in with my colour schemes, I’m going to count it…I’m making the rules after all :P.  The blouse may look pretty familiar to you – it is actually my very devoted effort to recreate my original Camas Blouse sample (as seen on our website).  I have been wearing the original linen knit version in heavy rotation since June 2013 and, even though it has held up well, it has become such an indispensable item in my wardrobe that I had to put precautionary measures in place and clone it before it wears out!StrathCamasCascade-43

This time I used a very light sweater knit from my local fabric store.  It has subtle stripes and, despite it’s light weight it is very warm.  I think it is a nondescript polyester blend so I hope it will avoid pilling.  I had trouble finding the exact cream color that I love so much and thus, I chose my desired color over my desired fabric content (not something I do very often!).  I find most creams make me look really washed out and pale – I was specifically looking for an oatmeal colored cream to avoid this!


For the shoulder yokes I used the same beautiful rustic bamboo/nettle woven that I had used in the original version (I had saved my extra fabric for just such a purpose).  I even went and purchased the exact same brass pearl shaped buttons from the very same store that I shopped at in Vancouver two years ago!  I think it is very likely that I will be replacing this second rendition of my favorite Camas blouse with a third (and fourth…and fifth…) clone when I wear this one out!  In the meantime, I have my two oatmeal colored Camas tops happily hanging side by side in my closet…one for hot summer days and one ready for spring and fall (or winter when paired with a scarf and cardigan).


When I decided to sew a Cascade Skirt as my winter holiday outfit I set out to find the most luxurious fabric available to me at short notice (I decided to sew this several days before Christmas just as I came down with the flu).  At my local fabric store I found this royal purple faux-suede with a satin backing – perfect!  It has a beautiful drape and it is very heavy and warm.  I love that the satin wrong side of the fabric is highlighted due to the hi-lo hem!

I think the proportions of this Megan Nielsen pattern are really glamorous and flattering.  The waistband is narrow and slimming when compared to the volume in the rest of the skirt.  The front hem, as you can see in the photo below, falls right to the middle/bottom of my knees.  I am really picky about hi-lo skirts – if the hem were an inch or two shorter at the front compared to the back you wouldn’t catch me sewing or wearing the skirt!  I dislike the proportions of hi-lo skirts whose front hem is far above the knees while the back hem falls low enough to be considered a maxi.  When a hi-lo skirt is hemmed in this way all I can see is an awkward mullet rather than a graceful cascade!  That is certainly not the case with the proportions of the Cascade Skirt – I feel so floaty and graceful while wearing it!StrathCamasCascade-49

The skirt was very easy and quick to sew.  The most time consuming part was the rolled hem which seemed as though it were miles and miles long!  To indicate how easy this skirt was though, I sewed the bulk of it with a high fever and a killer headache caused by my Christmas flu.  All the same, I didn’t run into any troubles during the construction process (aside from forgetting to cut out the second tie belt that I hoped to add to the waistband…instead I used a button from my stash as a closure).StrathCamasCascade-55

Oh…and I managed to sew the hook and eye to the inner waistband in the wrong direction twice.  This resulted in a hook and eye that instantly came undone and continued to undo itself all throughout Christmas Eve dinner.  It was a quick fix before I wore the skirt on Christmas Day though!

When I was originally making my decision to purchase the Cascade Skirt pattern, I did my usual Google Images and Pinterest searches to see the results of everyone else’s Cascade sewing efforts.  I saw many many beautiful skirts and read quite a few blog posts.  Lots of people mentioned that they feared wearing wrap skirts because the skirt might become unwrapped when sitting in a chair or walking in the wind.  I worried that this might be the case but, after wearing the skirt a number of times I have found that I am not in danger of exposing my undies to the world!  This is because the skirt wraps under itself so that the entire front is a double layer.  Even if the top layer flips all the way up in the wind, there is still as much coverage as a pencil skirt or at least a mini skirt would provide.  Keep in mind, I’m pretty short (5′ 3″) so the coverage might be less on taller women.  Here’s an illustration showing how covered I am by the two layers:StrathCamasCascade-50

Well, there you have it – the first of outfit of my new year wardrobe update is complete!  I have more to show you already but I’ll save that for another blog post.  I’m heading back to the studio where my sewing machine has been whirring away almost non stop lately!

Have a great weekend and happy sewing!


A Warm Waffle-Knit Strathcona


Last June, near my birthday, Erin (the super friendly sewist who blogs at Miss Crayola Creepy) surprised me by sending me a gift in the mail.  Not long prior she had made her husband a Strathcona Henley using a waffle knit that I coveted after searching fruitlessly for a similar fabric locally.  I had commented on her blog and had admired her henley (and her husband :P) and so Erin bought me some of the fabric and sent it along with a really nice birthday card.  Erin is a member of the LA Sewists group which is a network of sewing bloggers in the Los Angeles area.  They had a huge meet-up in June and we had contributed a pattern to their prize draw so Erin sent along some gorgeous LA Sewist wooden buttons as well for me to use for my Strathcona Henley.

***I can’t find an LA Sewist website to link to…does anyone know if one exists?***

Anyways, long story short, thank you very much for being such a thoughtful sewist Erin!  I was so thrilled to receive a gift in the mail from a fellow blogger and, now that winter is here and it is time for cozy sweaters, Matt is just as thrilled to have a waffle knit Strath at last!

As you can see, in the end I elected to skip the placket on this Strathcona and so the LA Sewists button remain nestled in my button container to await a future project.  I decided to do this because waffle knits do not retain their shape especially well and I worried that the weight of a button placket would cause the neckline and even the entire shirt front to droop considerably.  I’m glad I made this decision because as I sewed this shirt it felt like each seam was growing in length as I sewed it!  I used my serger and refrained from stretching the fabric as much as possible.  To combat the droopy nature of this knit I made both the neckline binding and the sleeve cuffs two inches narrower.  I probably could have taken as much as two more inches off!  As you can see above, the sleeve cuffs are still pretty wide (since Matt pulls up his sleeves to his elbows pretty often and has stretched them out a bit).StrathCamasCascade-25

Matt loves the fit of this Strath – it works nicely over t-shirts as a light sweater.  He layered it under another sweater when we went snow shoeing on the weekend and it provided lots of warmth.

I had mentioned a few posts ago that I would be working on a wardrobe update for Matt over the next few months and would post a plan for this soon…well, as you can see, the first garment is finished and I still haven’t posted the plan!  Here it is for you now:


My plan is to sew the waffle knit Strath (check!), three pairs of Comox Trunks using the fabric from our Comox Trunks kits (which happen to be on sale at the moment!) and then move on to some graphic Strathcona T-shirts.  Matt gets a lot of compliments on the printed t-shirt that I made using a Girl Charlee knit and so I plan to pick three or four new prints to create some more.  Matt doesn’t like to think much about outfit planning so I’ll try to pick prints that co-ordinate with most of his pants and sweaters.  I think they’ll be a nice way to elevate a regular daily outfit into something a bit more stylish!  Here are a few of the prints I’m currently admiring:

1) Sparrows in the Woods Cotton Jersey Blend Knit Fabric

2) Vintage Palm Screen Cotton Jersey Knit Fabric

3) Mod Circles on Blue Cotton Jersey Knit Fabric

Lastly, I’m going to use the Jutland Pants pattern to create some really rugged jeans for Matt.  He wears through jeans at a shocking rate and so I’m considering purchasing a good quality U.S. made denim from TaylorTailor in hopes that it will hold up better than the cheap denim used in Matt’s department store jeans.red_line_selvedge1-500x500

Whew, good thing my sewing mojo is at it’s peak at the moment!  I’ve been pumping out garments left, right and center and have a lot to show you over the next few weeks.  I hope you’re feeling on the top of your sewing game as well!


My Uncle’s Flannel-Lined Jutland Pants

Happy Friday everyone!  I have a picture to share with you today of my uncle in the pair of Jutlands that I made for him during our Jutland Sew-Along.

Uncle Gary - edited

I haven’t seen these pants on him in person as he lives a province away but he reports that they are so comfortable that he didn’t even bother bringing his old favorite pants on a trip to their skiing cabin – the Jutlands sufficed!  He reports that the lining is very cozy and is great protection from the mountain-top weather.


Happy New Year Sale and Sewing Plans

New Year's Sale

Happy New Year! We’re having a big sale in our store to help fuel your resolution and to-do list endeavors!  Everything is discounted from 15% to 40%…it’s our biggest sale yet!  I always find January to be a month full of exciting dreams and plans for the future (as most people do, I am sure!) and so, along with Matt and my personal resolutions, I have been formulating a sewing to-do list.Mood-boards-3

Clockwise: Camas Blouse | Cascade Skirt | Lazo Pants (coming soon in our shop!)

Of course, with the recent release of our Camas Blouse pattern, I have all sorts of interpretations of the blouse floating around in my head.  I plan to create a tunic length version shortly and also would like to do a tutorial on sewing the blouse with pleats instead of gathers.  I just finished sewing a Cascade Skirt (a lovely pattern by Megan Nielsen) and it pairs really well with the Camas Blouse.  The version I have made is in a luxurious deep purple faux-suede (to be blogged soon!) so my next version will be something a little more aimed at everyday wear.  Lastly, to provide another outfit option for my wardrobe of Camas Blouses, I have great plans to sew all sorts of samples of our upcoming pattern, the Lazo Pants!  The first two versions I make will be in floaty Tencel and a wool suiting blend.

Clockwise: Coppelia Cardigan | Nettie Bodysuit | Watson Bra and Underwear

In an effort to make my sewing plans work together to form a proper ‘wardrobe’ I’ve tried to create sewing plans with outfits in mind.  I think the short version of Papercut Pattern’s Coppelia Cardigan would look really nice with both the Lazo Pants and the Cascade Skirt because the cardigan ends at waist length.  Nicole and I will be sewing the Watson Bra during our upcoming Friday night sewing sessions.  And lastly, I’d like to sew a white Nettie Bodysuit as a layering piece to wear under the Coppelia.

Mood-boards-2 Mood-boards

I played around with some potential colour and texture schemes as I made my plans…don’t hold me to them though!  I never seem to be able to stick to one coordinated set of colours…the second I walk into a fabric store and notice an unusual fabric, all my best intentions are waylaid and my colour scheme is replaced by whatever suits the random fabric I first set my eyes on!

You might notice that these plans are all for personal sewing…I have lots of menswear sewing plans as well!  I’ll post about those later :).  Good luck with your sewing resolutions and daydreaming!  I hope you enjoy our biggest sale yet!


Finished Minoru Jacket


I finished my Minoru!  I posted in-progress photos a while ago and today I have the final photo shoot with Luki as my assistant.MinoruJacket-14

I made a number of small changes to the pattern to suit my fabric choice and my preferences.  First, I attached the hood to the base of the collar instead of adding it as a ‘hidden hood’ within the collar.  This is because I made this jacket as a rain jacket with waterproof fabric so I figured, any time I was wearing this jacket, I would likely be needing the hood!  No need to hide it :).

I shortened the collar considerably and still find it sufficiently cozy.  I lined the collar with flannel which really makes it feel nice against my skin.  I had intended to add a zipper shield with a flannel lining as well but forgot to sew it in…which is too bad because this fabric didn’t handle stitch-ripping very well (the holes from the needle don’t really disappear).  It would have been a nice addition to the coat because, without the shield, the cold zipper rests against my chin when the coat is closed!

You can see I had a bit of trouble dealing with the fabric – especially along the front zipper plackets.  They dragged and shifted no matter how careful I tried to be (I used LOADS of pins).  When I edited these photos I had to adjust the shadows and highlights considerably so you could see the seamlines in the jacket…I think this made the ripples on the plackets more obvious than they look in real life (I hope!).


I graded between sizes at the hips so that the jacket doesn’t flare out quite as much at the hips.  I also shortened the hem slightly and added inseam pockets to store treats and poop bags for Luki :P.

The biggest change I made to the construction process is that I skipped the lining (everywhere except the sleeves which I lined with slippery mesh).  While I love lined jackets, it seemed a shame to line this jacket because my fabric is really unique – it has a waterproof exterior and a fleece interior which is fused together.  I didn’t want to cover up the cozy fleece!


I love the gathering included in this design, especially at the waist – it’s really flattering!  I’m happy with the fit too – it is loose enough that I can layer a sweater and even another jacket underneath it for added warmth (since I finished my ‘fall jacket’ well after the first chilly frost!).  At the same time, the sleeves look pretty slim and I don’t feel overly bundled when I wear this jacket.

Well, I think it’s safe to categorize this Minoru Jacket as a win!  I’m heading to Vancouver to hang out with the actual designer (Tasia of Sewaholic) tomorrow – I think I’ll be a little cheesy and wear the jacket for the trip  :P.


Sewaholic Minoru: Wet Weather Sewing Project

IMGP2124Matt and I have been heading outdoors after work a few times a week of late to take long walks in various rain forests in the Comox Valley.  Over the summer, we became enamored with the concept of foraging, and now that mushroom season is upon us, I am itching to get out mushroom hunting every evening!

We just had our first foraged mushroom meal on Wednesday (a Lobster Mushroom Pizza!), and now that we’ve been able to successfully identify one species of mushroom, I have another page marked in my mushroom identification book so that we can head out there to expand our repetoir (next is Chanterelles). With all that being said, I have discovered that Matt and I both need some better waterproof or at least water resistant rain gear!  Be both have a lot of wool outerwear, hats, scarves and gloves because I made a lot of our outerwear when we lived in Halifax.  It was much drier and colder there and so I allowed my love of wool to dictate my fabric choice when sewing our winter clothes.  My wool jacket turned out beautifully but I haven’t had much occasion to wear it since we moved back to B.C. because it is simply so wet and warm here!  When wearing wool coats, I run the risk of smelling like a wet dog all day :P.


To solve this lack of west-coast style rain gear, I’m working on a Minoru for myself right now in a lovely waterproof, fleece-backed material that I bought during the New Years Fabricland sale last winter.  I think it will result in a coat that is light, wind resistant, water resistant, and easy to move around in – perfect for mushroom hunting!IMGP2121

I’ll write another post about my jacket once it is finished and I have tested it out!  For now though, I am really pleased with this Sewaholic Pattern (as per usual) and have been noticing Matt’s envious glances into my sewing room (I guess I know what I’ll be sewing for him soon…).



I sewed for myself! A Summer Jazz Dress and Kimono


Prepare to feast your eyes on some really pretty photos!  My sister, Matt and I headed to the beach at sunrise (6:10am) to get some shots of Kayleen doing yoga and me posing in my latest outfit.  The location and lighting was absolutely stunning and I enjoyed waking up while sipping coffee and watching my sister contort herself into various energetic shapes.  Matt was really in top form and I had trouble paring down the photos for this post…it would seem a little self-absorbed to bombard you with many more than I’ve included!  Anyways, let’s start off with an awesome picture of my sister:


STUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  If you’d like to see more shots like this, she posts them regularly on her Instagram account: yogakayvdr.  And now, moving on to some more sedentary photos of myself in my latest sewn-by-me outfit.Blog-3

I recently started chatting with Elizabeth from Snapdragon Studios.  Have you heard of this pattern company?  The company consists of two friends, Kim and Elizabeth, who design easy to wear and very pretty women’s patterns.  They have a website, a very active blog and an Etsy store which currently includes their first three patterns – The Weekend Rambler Skirt, The Market Day Tunic, and The Summer Jazz Dress.  Elizabeth and I both coveted each other’s patterns and so we eagerly traded PDFS (they have both PDF and paper versions) and I got right to work sewing the Summer Jazz Dress…I literally started and finished sewing it the very evening that I received the pattern!

The Summer Jazz Dress can be sewn in both knits and wovens.  There are shirt and knee length options provided as well as instructions on how to lengthen it to create a maxi dress.  I sewed my dress (and co-ordinating kimono) for a wedding I attended a couple weekends ago.  The wedding was at the north tip of Vancouver Island which can often be quite breezy and chilly so I opted for the maxi version (plus, as I’m sure you all know…I LOVE how comfortable maxi dresses are to wear!).  I sewed the dress out of the bamboo jersey that is included in our Comox Trunks Supplies Kits and I sewed the kimono using the very popular Elle DIY Kimono tutorial and used a polyester Georgette.


Construction-wise, there isn’t too much to say about the kimono – I finished the edges with a narrow hem and really should have used french seams but sewed the kimono in the same evening that I sewed the dress (the wedding was rapidly approaching!) and so I started by using french seams on the shoulder seams and quickly reverted to serged seams for the side seams and sleeve seams.Blog-6

While the construction notes are brief, I could wax on and on about how lovely this quick sewing project is to wear!  It floats in the smallest of breezes and actually protects against the chill quite successfully.Blog-9

While kimonos can sometimes be a little cumbersome to wear, this one doesn’t restrict my movement too much because the sleeves are 2/3 length and are not overly wide (though they sometimes get caught on door handles as I walk through the door :P).  I curved the front more than the tutorial recommended and this makes it feel like a short jacket at the front while still providing enough length at the back to be, in my opinion, very sumptous.  I suppose you could say that my kimono is fairly reminiscent of a mullet…Blog-12

The flowers are so beautiful and I love the gray tones that make the bright coral a little more sedate!  The pinky/coral poppies (maybe?) match my favorite lipstick perfectly…completely unintentional :P.Blog-10

And now on to the main purpose of this post!  The Summer Jazz Dress!Blog-23

This design features flattering flutter sleeves and a really nicely curved v-neck which is my favorite shape of neckline.  It also includes a very clever elastic casing that creates a subtle empire waistline and produces the comfiest dress ever – no worries about eating too much at a wedding buffet in this dress!  One thing to note about the heavy gathers at the front of this dress – they pull the hemline down so it is very important to compensate for this by hanging and cutting your hem accordingly.  Of course, I failed to do this because I was in a rush to finish my dress so I may end up trimming the hem to knee length after all to fix how it curves upwards at center back.Blog-14

The only changes I made to the pattern were slimming down the hip and thigh area at the side seam and altering the length of the maxi as an experiment.  My knit is likely pretty heavy compared to the floaty and drapey fabrics used for the Snapdragon samples so I felt it needed to look a little more slim in the waist.  I probably took about 5 or 6 inches out from either side seam in this area!
Blog-18As for the length, I wanted to try hemming it so that the maxi skirt fell to my ankles as a way to display my shoes.  I thought this would be an interesting way to make a maxi dress look a little less overwhelming on my petite frame.  In the end, I think I like the ankle length look on fashion models but probably prefer the floor skimming length on me!  Ah well, it was worth a try!  Even if the floor length is more flattering on me, this shorter length is certainly less likely to be a tripping hazard!Blog-22 Have you tried a Snapdragon pattern yet?  If you haven’t, they are certainly worth a go!  The illustrations are hand-drawn and clear and the instructions are brief yet effective.  The construction techniques are clever and very efficient.  I particularly liked the neckline finish – it is probably the simplest way to sew a v-neck I have come across!  Binding is used as a facing and the folded ends of the binding meet at centre front creating the V shape.  It was nice not to have to worry about visible binding and it resulted in a very clean garment exterior.  I like that the garment can easily be sewn in a woven or knit and that tips are included for each type of fabric.  I also am glad that the maxi version of the dress was not included as a pattern piece as this made the PDF take up far less paper than it could have!

I look forward to seeing more Summer Jazz Dresses showing up around the internet!  Check out the Snapdragon Studios blog to see more as they are currently running a blog tour for this pattern!


Shorts On the Line – Menswear Inspired


I made myself some Jeds!  What better excuse than Shorts On the Line to make my dream of Jeds for women a reality? If you have been hankering to make some shorts or have already done so in the last year, head on over to the Shorts on the Line Sew-Along on Kollabora to join in!  There are some awesome prizes up for grabs and there is a tonne of great shorts-sewing inspiration already posted.Shortsontheline1

My Jedediah shorts are super comfy.  I made them in our smallest size (Size 30) which was too big for me at the waist but fits quite well when worn lower on the hips.  I love this classic, casual chino style – it is perfect to pair with feminine blouses if I want to be dressy or (probably more realistically) to wear with a t-shirt or button-up when I’m working on the garden or riding my bike!

I used an organic cotton twill for this pair which was left over from a pair of Jedediah pants that I made for Matt…so we could match if we wanted to (but we don’t want to :P)!  I shortened the pocket bags because when I went to hem my shorts, they were hanging out well below the hem.  As much as I loved their french seams and pretty floral fabric, I couldn’t bear to display them to the world!

I made a bit of a Jedediah production line and sewed some Jedediah pants at the same time that I sewed my shorts.  It really didn’t take too much longer to sew two pairs instead of one!Jedsforme2

I LOVE the fabric I used for these.  It is a stretch cotton sateen with all sorts of flowers, birds and even butterflies printed on it.  It is pretty light weight and quite cool to wear in the summer heat.  Because it was stretchy I made two small pleats in the pants front (positioned half way between the fly and each pocket) before attaching the waistband and then cut off the excess waistband once one side was attached to the pants.  This resulted in a much snugger (and probably much better) fit than the shorts version and they sit where I would normally wear my jeans or pants – not too high waisted but not low on the hips.Jedsforme5 Jedsforme3

I took a little bit of width off of the knee area so they wouldn’t look so baggy (probably only about an inch) and shortened the hem considerably.  I left off the back pockets on both the shorts and the pants to create a bit more of a feminine and maybe dressy look.  I like the fit that the back yoke created but I didn’t get any pictures of the back view without my hands in my pockets.  Unfortunately, my hands are creating drag lines in both of these photos but you’ll have to trust me that they aren’t there when my hands aren’t in my pockets!Jedsforme4

My favorite part of these Jeds is the cuffed hem I created.  I serged the raw edge, turned approximately 3″ to the inside, stitched it in place and then folded the new hem upwards to create a small 1″ cuff with no wrong side visible.Jedsforme

Well, there you have it!  Two menswear pieces never even intended for a man and proudly worn by me!  Thanks, Carla, Rachael and Kollabora for the excuse to spend some time sewing for myself!

This post is part of the Shorts on the Line sewalong.  Shorts on the Line 2014 is sponsored by: Britex FabricsHawthorne Threadsmiss matatabi, and Soak Wash.  Hosted by imagine gnatssmall + friendly, and Kollabora.