I’m so excited to share with you not one, but two new patterns today! We have been working over the last year to create the perfect men’s jeans pattern and wound up creating two designs with different fits: Meet the Quadra Jeans and Fulford Jeans!
Both patterns are available in size 28-50 which is a far bigger size range than our Jedediah Pants and Jutland Pants include!
I’ll walk you through the Quadra Jeans first: They are part of the Parkland Collection which means they are a casual wardrobe staple tending towards a modern, slim fit.
The Quadra Jeans feature a subtly tapered leg, a little extra room in the thighs, and a moderate low rise.
You can sew these jeans in denim with no stretch or up to 2% elastane for added flexibility. They include all of the classic jeans details including a zipper fly, strengthening topstitching, flatfell inseams, rivets on high stress areas, and a jeans button.
I’ve included a unique feature, as far as jeans go to make fitting easier for the home sewist: The waistband is cleverly sewn with a center back seam (as you would often see in men’s dress trousers). This center back seam features regular 5/8″ seam allowances so if you are sewing for a man with a fluctuating waistline or are sewing the jeans as a surprise gift, they are easy to adjust larger or smaller even after they are fully constructed! The seam is completely hidden beneath the center back belt loop so the waistband looks like it would on classic jeans.
The Quadras look great sewn in denim or other trouser weight materials. I used Cone Mills denim with 1% elastane for our first sample and a cotton twill for our second sample:
You can see the taper of the leg well in the photo below.
This is a classic straight leg design with just a slight curve at the hips (which can easily be removed if you would like to use selvage denim – I will go over this in the sew-along!)
They include a higher rise than the Quadras (just below the waist) and a roomier fit at the knees and calves in a manner reminiscent of vintage work jeans.
Just like the Quadras, they include all the details you would expect – lots of topstitching, a yoke, a coin pocket and plenty of bartacks. They also include a zipper fly.
When sewn in a brushed cotton they make a lovely casual trouser.
The Fulford fit was a bit unfamiliar to our younger model (my sewing friend’s obliging husband, Scott) as he is more used to the lower rise of the Quadras. The Fulford rise, on the other hand, was exactly the height that Matt’s dad, Rick, is used to (who was photographed in the denim version of the Fulford Jeans).
Here you can see the roomier fit in the lower legs due to the straight cut:
Each pattern includes incredibly detailed instructions done using the same construction method as our Jedediah Pants and Jutland Pants (so if you have sewn either of those patterns, you will find these a breeze!). I’ve more than doubled the amount of diagrams included compared to the Jedediah Pants since I know that many of us are very visual sewists.
If you are more familiar with the construction method included in Closet Case jeans patterns or a different order of construction from a beloved vintage pattern (for instance), you will be relieved to know that our pattern pieces will work perfectly well with other construction methods – just sub in your favourite set of instructions instead of using ours.
That being said, I am very proud of the results our method produces and can’t wait to share the sew-along I’ve been working on with you! We’ll be talking about fitting, I’ll share detailed photos of sewing the fly, and I can answer any questions you might have along the way…stay tuned for the start of the sew along in a couple of weeks (date tbd soon!).
In addition to our two new patterns, we’ve also dropped a myriad of high quality jeans-making notions and tools in the shop today!
First up, we have beautiful blank Kraft-tex labels to stitch onto your jeans waistband:
Kraft-tex washable paper is back in stock by the 1/2 m for your bag and wallet making projects and I’ve cut some of it into perfect jeans labels so you don’t need to purchase more than the tiny quantity needed to add to your jeans. I love to leave the label blank as a way to catch people’s eye…these jeans don’t have a brand name! You could also print on the label with waterproof ink. Each label costs only $2 CAD so it is a very affordable way to add a special touch to your jeans project.
In addition to the Talon zippers we’ve stocked for many years, we now offer 7″ and 8″ Countess zippers in classic navy and brass. The 7″ length is suitable for the Quadra Jeans sizes 26-38 while the 8″ is perfect for the Quadra Jeans sizes 40-50 and the Fulford Jeans sizes 26-38.
Prym rivet kits are now available in the shop. I’ve tested out many hardware kits while developing these jeans patterns and this is the set with which I am 100% pleased. The included tools are good quality and make installation very secure with only the addition of a hammer and firm table. I love that the rivets include two “right sides” – a smooth gunmetal side and a dimpled copper side.
The copper set looks stunning against dark denim!
We also carry a silver set which features the gunmetal alternative as well. Each set includes enough rivets for four pairs of jeans!
To pair with the Prym rivets, you will find two new jeans button kits available, also by Prym.
In the photo above you can see the silver button we’ve stocked in our shop for some time now. In the middle is my favourite copper Prym button (measuring a classic 17mm). On the right is the larger art deco Prym button (measuring 20mm) whose proportions are pleasing on heavy weight work jeans. Both button sets include the necessary tools for installation and feature enough buttons to make many pairs of jeans.
Lastly, if you plan to sew multiple pairs of jeans or if hardware application really makes you nervous, you’ll be pleased to find some installation tools in the shop! The Prym pliers work for everything from rivets to snaps (they’re great for applying those plastic snaps to baby clothes…speaking from experience here!) and the tripod is an excellent choice for those with decreased dexterity (it stabilises the tiny pieces for you leaving your hands well away from the hammer).
I hope you agree that our jeans patterns are filling a void in the world of menswear sewing and that you are excited to get sewing denim with me!
I’ll be sharing the details about the sew-along and also some of our wonderful test sewer’s versions on the blog shortly.