Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!

The Story of A Vintage Dior Suit


Thread Theory Dior Suit (1 of 15) Ever since I posted about David Coffin’s Shirtmaking Workbook and the beautiful (and inspiring!) photos of RTW garments within it, I’ve been thinking about photographing the garments I have on hand to analyze.  I’m hoping you can help me examine this vintage piece – it’s a Dior suit which was handed down to us by Matt’s Dad.  He is on vacation right now otherwise I would ask him for a more detailed story about its origins.  Maybe that can be a follow up post in a couple of weeks after we’ve had a chance to make up our own story for the suit!

As you can see, the suit is cut from a beautiful thick navy wool with a subtle white pinstripe…

Thread Theory Dior Suit (4 of 15)

It is a far thicker wool than I see in many modern suits which makes it very striking but also not that easy to wear.  It would really only work if you knew you were going to be in a pretty cold environment all day – I pity any man who ever tried to wear it to a winter wedding because as soon as he walked into the heated dining room he probably greatly regretted his decision!

Thread Theory Dior Suit (6 of 15)

The lining is clearly labelled with the Dior logo and is a lovely rich burgundy.  It looks to me to be silk.

Thread Theory Dior Suit (7 of 15)

The pants are lined with a thicker material that I would probably use for something heavy duty such as a Goldstream Peacoat.  There is no chance of getting a nice cooling breeze through the legs while wearing these!

Thread Theory Dior Suit (14 of 15)

On one front panel a Dior label is stitched to the inner welt pocket.

Thread Theory Dior Suit (11 of 15)

On the other front panel, a label is sewn to the welt pocket that states, “Tailored by Hart Schaffner & Marx,” with an embroidered bugle player, and below, “Raleighs.”

Thread Theory Dior Suit (10 of 15)

The suit has been tailored to fit someone very close to Matt’s size which is quite the thrill!  Despite the garment likely being at least a few decades old, Matt feels really slick and timeless while wearing it.  The pants are conservatively slim and straight (they aren’t ’70s bell bottoms and they aren’t ’60s super slim fit).

Thread Theory Dior Suit (9 of 15)

The vest has quite a few buttons which maybe makes it look slightly dated.  Matt looks excellent in it though – he’s a vest kind of guy (maybe I’ll show you a picture of him all dressed up next time I post about this!).

Thread Theory Dior Suit (8 of 15)

The crowning glory is the suit jacket though – it is such a conservative and timeless style that I don’t think anyone would guess that Matt is wearing a vintage piece.  The arms sadly fit a bit short for Matt but this is a common occurrence with any suit jacket for him.

Thread Theory Dior Suit (2 of 15)

Thread Theory Dior Suit (5 of 15)

I love the beautifully sewn details such as the felt undercollar…

Thread Theory Dior Suit (12 of 15)

Thread Theory Dior Suit (13 of 15)

…and the beautifully finished pant waistband and fly…

Thread Theory Dior Suit (15 of 15)

So…can you guess this suit’s story?  How old do you think it is?

6 thoughts on “The Story of A Vintage Dior Suit

  1. Pingback: The ‘Truth’ Revealed about the Vintage Dior Suit | Thread Theory

  2. Fascinating and great pix! Let’s see if we can start a Lots of Pix Inside Cool Garments trend!:) I find them really so helpful, clarifying and instructive.

  3. Beautiful! How interesting that the pants lining is inserted by fell stitch at the waist. After looking at all the pics, it must have been made as a winter suit. Thanks for sharing!

  4. Id guess very late 60s to early 70s. The jacket lapels are fairly wide. It is a beautiful suit! My dad sells stuff at a flea mkt in NYC and he found a beautiful grey Burberry suit in my size and told me about it AFTER selling it! Whaaa whuuu

  5. Such a puzzle! Perhaps, a 1980’s winter suit? I’d love to know the answer.

  6. It’s really beautiful and so good that it can still be worn and appreciated. I’ve no idea when it may date from though! Love the four pockets on the waistcoat. What on earth would a gentleman need them all for?

What do you think? Leave a comment for me :)

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s