Ever since I posted about David Coffin’s Shirtmaking Workbook and the beautiful (and inspiring!) photos of RTW garments within it, I’ve been thinking about photographing the garments I have on hand to analyze. I’m hoping you can help me examine this vintage piece – it’s a Dior suit which was handed down to us by Matt’s Dad. He is on vacation right now otherwise I would ask him for a more detailed story about its origins. Maybe that can be a follow up post in a couple of weeks after we’ve had a chance to make up our own story for the suit!
As you can see, the suit is cut from a beautiful thick navy wool with a subtle white pinstripe…
It is a far thicker wool than I see in many modern suits which makes it very striking but also not that easy to wear. It would really only work if you knew you were going to be in a pretty cold environment all day – I pity any man who ever tried to wear it to a winter wedding because as soon as he walked into the heated dining room he probably greatly regretted his decision!
The lining is clearly labelled with the Dior logo and is a lovely rich burgundy. It looks to me to be silk.
The pants are lined with a thicker material that I would probably use for something heavy duty such as a Goldstream Peacoat. There is no chance of getting a nice cooling breeze through the legs while wearing these!
On one front panel a Dior label is stitched to the inner welt pocket.
On the other front panel, a label is sewn to the welt pocket that states, “Tailored by Hart Schaffner & Marx,” with an embroidered bugle player, and below, “Raleighs.”
The suit has been tailored to fit someone very close to Matt’s size which is quite the thrill! Despite the garment likely being at least a few decades old, Matt feels really slick and timeless while wearing it. The pants are conservatively slim and straight (they aren’t ’70s bell bottoms and they aren’t ’60s super slim fit).
The vest has quite a few buttons which maybe makes it look slightly dated. Matt looks excellent in it though – he’s a vest kind of guy (maybe I’ll show you a picture of him all dressed up next time I post about this!).
The crowning glory is the suit jacket though – it is such a conservative and timeless style that I don’t think anyone would guess that Matt is wearing a vintage piece. The arms sadly fit a bit short for Matt but this is a common occurrence with any suit jacket for him.
I love the beautifully sewn details such as the felt undercollar…
…and the beautifully finished pant waistband and fly…
So…can you guess this suit’s story? How old do you think it is?