Thread Theory

Welcome to the new era of menswear sewing. Go ahead and create something exceptional!

Another Wool Peacoat!



One of our newest stockists, the Pendleton Woolen Mills Store, asked me to sew up a sample of the Goldstream Peacoat for display beside our patterns in their store.  They have a great selection of indie sewing patterns that are nicely curated so that all are compatable with Pendleton Wools.  Their walls are festooned with an inspiring selection of sewn up samples and I am proud that our Goldstream Peacoat will now join these ranks!


Matt and I did a silly ‘nautical’ photo shoot at the park behind our house.  We had to squeeze it in before Matt headed off to work so we didn’t have time to go to one of the beaches or forests that represent our usual photo shoot stomping grounds.


This Goldstream is sewn up using Pendleton Eco-wise wool in a midnight black colour (slightly off-black with a hint of navy blue).  The Pendleton Woolen Mill Store carries this wool in a rainbow of colours.  In case you are wondering what Eco-wise means, staff told me that there is much less water used in the production of these wools.  They are also certified to be an environmentally friendly fabric option.  Here is what Pendleton has to say about this sumptious wool (it is SERIOUSLY soft and dense):

Pendleton Eco-Wise wool fabric has been Cradle to Cradle CertifiedCM by MBDC. Wool is an environmentally friendly and naturally renewable fiber. This fabric can be recycled or composted as a healthy additive to the soil. The ingredients and manufacturing process meet or exceed the sustainability criteria for this certification. Our goal is to manufacture wool in a way that leaves the smallest possible footprint on the earth.

You can order this fabric by phoning ((503) 535-5786) or emailing ( the store.

EcoWise fabric

I really like how stiff the collar turned out with this dense wool.  I didn’t purchase any special horse hair canvas or even stiffer interfacing, I just used what I had on hand (medium weight fusible) and sewed the coat as per the directions.


It was tempting to delve into all the tailoring techniques I learned during the Tailored Peacoat Series, but due to time constraints and the fact that this peacoat would likely never actually be worn since it was destined to become a store sample, I refrained!  As a result, I had a little trouble setting in the sleeves since I am used to much spongier (and cheaper quality) wools or wool blends and am sadly lacking a tailors ham in the sewing studio…something that clearly needs to be remedied soon!  I’m hoping they have a tailors ham at the Pendleton Woolen Mills store and imagine a thorough iron with the ham as an aid will set the rumpled sleeve heads straight!


I sewed a size Small with the optional slim-fit darts.  I made the interior pocket the exact size of Matt’s new wallet…just in case this jacket ever gets sent back across the border when Pendleton Woollen Mill Store doesn’t need it any longer :P.


As a finishing touch for this coat, I picked up some PERFECT fouled anchor buttons from another Portland based sewing store (and also one of our stockists), Modern Domestic.  They give the peacoat such a classic and refined look!



I used simple dark grey buttons instead of gold for the epaulets and sleeve tabs for fear of turning the jacket into something too flashy and costume-like.


After all these dark navy and black peacoats I’ve sewn, I’m really itching to sew up this pattern in something a little more adventurous.  Matt was feeling brave and inspired while we were walking around the Woollen Mills Store while in Portland (on our U.S. trip a couple weeks ago) and actually requested a peacoat made up in one of the Pendleton Jacquards.  Can you imagine how awesome the Goldstream would look in something like this?:

Maize Spirit Charcoal 83114

This gorgeous wool is called Maize Spirit in the Charcoal colour-way.  Check it out and all the other amazing Jacquards on the Pendleton Woollen Mill Store website.

Maybe one day… (complete with leather buttons or toggles and leather elbow patches)!  In the meantime, I love the classic British navy look that I seem to be producing at alarming rates…seriously, I’ve sewn so many now that it takes me 3 short evenings of sewing to finish a peacoat!


Would you be brave enough to sew a Goldstream Peacoat in a print?  Or do you prefer the classic solid black or navy look?

6 thoughts on “Another Wool Peacoat!

  1. I like the idea of an adventurous print, but I think I’d find it quite stressful buying the fabric – wonder how much more fabric you’d have to buy to get a good match across the entire jacket?

    • Yes, that’s true…especially with such a big print. I bet the staff at Pendleton are quite used to helping customers work that out! If I were buying the print from my local fabric store I’d probably bring the main pattern pieces in and try to lay them out on the bolt…the staff are used to me doing weird things like that :P.

  2. As a huge fan of prints I am loving the idea of a print peacoat! In fact I think I’ll be stealing the idea and adding it to my “selfish” sewing list!

  3. I prefer the simple, plain colour – that may be because I don’t think Mr. Guy would wear anything else – although now I’ve started making things for him, he’s getting more and more adventurous (I’m still not looking forward to sewing the thick waled brown corduroy he chose to be Jedediah trousers)

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